[PLUG-TALK] Woodworking?

Russell Senior seniorr at aracnet.com
Tue Sep 14 00:32:40 UTC 2010


>>>>> "Keith" == Keith Lofstrom <keithl at kl-ic.com> writes:

Keith> 4) Boxes with stringers are usually stronger and lighter than
Keith> solid wood. Two panels of 1/2 inch doug fir plywood, spaced
Keith> with a 2x2 frame, assembled with glue, deck screws and
Keith> strong-tie, and veneered with something nice, will be far
Keith> stronger than a 1.5 inch solid door.  Perhaps not quite as
Keith> axe-resistant.  That is what high voltage is for.

Lighter, yes.  Not stronger in the absolute, but stronger per weight.
Under a bending load, the outer surfaces take proportionally more
strain than the inner ones, which is the reason why I-beams are
I-beams.  

However, I may be drilling holes in arbitrary locations and having a
solid core makes *that* connection more solid.  Also, putting a 200-lb
drill press on a hollow core table top results in visible deflection.
With composite materials, probably some creep over time, as well.

Keith> 5) Crosscuts on NW Front Avenue.
Keith> http://www.crosscuthardwoods.com/ If you want to make something
Keith> Really Nice, they have a gigantic assortment of furniture grade
Keith> hardwoods, veneers, and tools, from $$ to $$$$$.  [...]

The one I'm comparing to was constructed for me by a PLUG subscriber,
Dale Victor, when he was still working in Portland.  Being a
professional woodworker, he had access to professional machinery and
was/is an ARTIST/CRAFTSMAN of Grade A, Number 1, Super Plus Plus
magnitude. 

With a good planer, I imagine you could take a stack of relatively
straight fir 2x4s, square them up and get a decent, strong, solid wood
tabletop core.  The veneer thicknesses on these older things (doors
and table tops from yesteryear, when stuff was built to last forever)
is a lot greater (like 1/8 or 1/4 inch) than the 10, 20, or 30 mil
thicknesses you can find these days.


-- 
Russell Senior         ``I have nine fingers; you have ten.''
seniorr at aracnet.com



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