[PLUG-TALK] Electrical circuit branch: identify first outlet
Denis Heidtmann
denis.heidtmann at gmail.com
Fri Jan 6 17:11:32 UTC 2023
I have trouble understanding why changing existing receptacles was
required. You have the code--check to see where it covers when existing
wiring must be updated.
-Denis
On Wed, Jan 4, 2023 at 4:07 PM Keith Lofstrom <keithl at kl-ic.com> wrote:
> On Wed, Jan 04, 2023 at 08:56:17AM -0800, Galen Seitz wrote:
> >
> > Since we're talking receptacles, I recently noticed that Leviton has
> > a line of receptacles with integrated USB C Power Delivery, with up
> > to 60W of power. 15A 60W receptacle has a depth of 1.40". Not
> > cheap, but it would certainly help reduce the clutter.
>
> My recent "lets rip the wrong hole in the drywall" project
> was to install one of these Leviton USB-added receptacles,
> so we can charge mobile phones in the garage. It has
> USB-C on one side and USB-A on the other.
>
> However, the "brick" on the back of the USB-enhanced outlet
> is huge - it will barely fit in one side of a standard
> duplex box, and crowds the other side, leaving room only
> for a narrow single pole light switch; knockouts must go
> on the switch side, no room on the USB outlet side, tops
> or sides or back.
>
> A deeper box, or a box with an extension on the back, will
> allow more room for wiring.
>
> The USB receptacle has worked for two months in the cold.
> I don't know if it will survive summer in the non-air-
> conditioned garage. The garage got up to 110F on 2022's
> hottest day, even with vent fan running. We recently
> re-roofed with lighter-colored "California climate zone"
> shingles (*), so the garage may be cooler next summer.
>
> Inside the house, four of the outlets have "socket extender
> covers" attached to them, which turn a duplex outlet into
> six outlets. Two of these extenders also provide USB-A and
> USB-C sockets. Very quick and easy retrofit. We don't
> let the house get above 85F in the summer (or below 65F in
> winter), so these inside-the-house outlet extenders won't
> suffer the thermal extremes of our unheated garage.
>
> All these extenders require grounded 3-wire feeds.
> When we bought the 1960-built house, it had many ancient
> two-prong-only sockets, as well as a Stablok "fire trap
> arc welder" circuit breaker box. I did a LOT of rewiring
> to replace all that dangerous crap.
>
> If you have dangerous wiring, replace that first, then
> hire a good electrician to inspect your work (the county
> inspectors are too busy to check details). Quicky fixes
> are putting lipstick on the pig you are about to roast.
>
> Also, download the latest Oregon Electrical Specialty Code
> book, or read it at the library. I unpleasantly learned
> that my three-year-old dead-tree code did not mandate
> shutter-covers inside outlets, the new code did. I had to
> replace 50 outlets after the first (failed) inspection.
>
> Another strong suggestion is using WAGO lever-action wire
> connectors instead of old-style twisted-wire nuts. If you
> cut wires square, and trim the insulation to the specified
> 11mm, these little connection bricks are more mechanically
> secure than wire-nuts, and very tidy, while making future
> wire tracing and rework easy.
>
> My only complaint is that WAGO offers 2, 3, and 5 wire
> widths, but no wider; One of my boxes has six connections
> on the "white" neutral lead, so I double-lashed two of the
> WAGO 5-connectors together.
>
> For ground connections inside that "busy" box, I used a
> 7 terminal grounding bar, normally intended for a small
> circuit breaker panel, and screwed it snug to the back of
> the box. That dressed the ground wires very neatly,
> though an inspector won't see a "green screw" poking out
> of the back of the box. If they complain, I'll remove
> the cover plate and let them admire the neatness inside.
> Enough airspace in there to fly a small plane. :-)
>
> Keith
>
> (*) Climate zones moving north 30 miles per year, and
> accelerating. Welcome to Baja British Columbia.
>
> --
> Keith Lofstrom keithl at keithl.com
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